Our quest to eat as much ramen as the city has to offer continues apace, and finds us at Tabata, in Hell's Kitchen. A distinct Burmese influence enhances the Tabata ramen (above) flavored with coconut milk and red onions, in addition to cilantro and the usual eggs. The entire effect is yellow and creamy, like summer sun coming in through the window.
The ebi ramen's salt broth (below) begins unctuously, almost too close in consistency to lotion for comfort. Be patient, give it time, let it seep. The broth thins as you dunk down for onion, for mushrooms, for shrimp, for snow peas, for scallions, and for noodles, again and again. Both bowls seem bottomless until you look up, shocked, warmed, and all done.