Though Heraclitus is hardly a household name anymore, everyone knows the quotation that Plato ascribed to him: "You cannot step into the same river twice." This spirit pervades What Happens When, the nine-month restaurant "installation" helmed by John Fraser of Dovetail. Every month, the restaurant completely changes in response to a new inspiration (the blush, winter hunting, a Renoir painting). Naturally, a certain amount of pretense follows --- the iterations are called "movements" --- but the idea is intriguing and admirably ambitious.
With a very special guest in town, we visited the latest version, inspired by the birthplace of jazz. We were greeted with miniature muffaletta sandwiches, delightful bite-sized evocations of New Orleans, as well as a pot of warm, soft, spicy garlic cheddar rolls.