A humble temple to walnuts and pistachios in Astoria, Al-Sham Sweets and Pastries crams a dizzying array of baklava into its small display case. They serve the Syrian variety ("Sham" is the old name for Syria and still the local appellation for Damascus). Unlike Turkish baklava, the Syrian versions derive most of their sweetness from the nuts rather than syrup. The diverse styles available demonstrate the importance of texture to properly made baklava and invite grazing to identify your favorite. We've only made it through about a fifth of the options, so we need to make a few more research trips.