We arrived at Delhi Heights, beneath the 7 train in Queens, on Father's Day, minus our fathers but ready to eat. "It's a special buffet," our waiter said, tilting his hand back and forth in the universal gesture signifying 'it's going to be more expensive than usual.' At the tables were curry chicken wraps, veggie wraps, three neon-hued mocktails, including a Pepto-pink coconut rosewater and the one (below) called "khos kola," chicken kebabs, chewy-sweet vegetable manchurian meatballs, samosas, potato balls, goat curry, butter chicken, tandoori chicken, potatoes and okra, biryani, naan, basmati rice, dal, saag paneer. And when the check came, the grand total was $11.95 a person. Unbelievable, and unbelievably good.