Our absolute favorite restaurant in the world--Vatan--is currently being renovated and won't open back up until the fall. We were bereft for weeks until discovering Gaam, a new restaurant run by the same people with the same staff that is serving as a sort of hold-over until Vatan reopens. The food is Gujarati, vegetarian, prix fixe, and all you can eat, served by a costumed waitstaff that guides you through the 20 (!) different dishes that arrive at your table with these words of wisdom: "Watch out for the peppers. They can be tricky." While it's not quite Vatan, which is decorated like an Indian village, complete with a banyan tree and a well, it is delicious. Now we can stand to wait. But not for too long.